Sewing machine



A. H. DE VOE.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED DEC.5. 191e,

Patented May 16, 1922.

5 SHEET -SHEET1.

WITNESS A TTORA/EY A. H. DE VOE.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED DEC.5.1916.

-SHEET 2.

Patented May 16, 1922.

5 SHEET INVE/VT R HIM/z,

A HORNE V AI H. DE VOE SEWING'MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED DEC.5, I916.

Patented May 16, 1922..

5 SHEET -SHEET 3.

IN l/EN TOR mm Km A TTOR/VEY A. H. DE VOE.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED DEC.5'. I916.

1,416,002, Patented May 16, 1922.

W, a -SHEET 4.

WITNESS llVl/E/VTDR g-g iww wwx/m I ATTORNEY A. H. DE JOE.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED 050.5. 10m.

Patented May 16, 1922.

5 SHEETS--SHEET 5.

f J .r Q Q Q T I 7 IN l/E/V TOR W X402 4 A TTOR/VEY xii/MW.

ALBERT H. DE VOE, 0F WESTFIELD, NEW JERSEY, ASSIGNOR TO THE SINGER MANU-FACTURING COMPANY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

SEWING MACHINE.

iaiaooa.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented li'iay it}, 315F922.

Application filed December 5, 1916. Serial No. 135,154.

To 1177 w/mmi may concern lle it known that I. ALBERT H. Dr: Von. acitizen of the United States. residing at \Yestfield. in the county ofUnion and State of New Jersey. have invented certain new and usefulImprovements in Sewing Machines, of which the following is aspecification. reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.

This invention relates more. particularly to that class of devices insewing machines having a. certain normal operation which it. is desiredunder certain conditions to modify either in prmletermined degree or toan extent which may be. arbitrary on the part of the operator. as in thecase of machines em ploying means for imparting lateral joggingmovements to a. rcwiprocating needle. or feeding or rutliing mechanismsfor special classes of work. It is designed more particularly foremployment in connection with means for shifting the work relatively tothe work-holder of a butt-onhole sewing machine to space the buttonholesapart.

The invention has for one of its objects to provide. in mechanismsincluding a driving element and a driven element connected therewith andderiving operative movements therefrom. manually controlled meanswhereby the normal movements of the driven element may be varied atpleasure either in a predetermined degree or in a degree which isarhitrarv on the part of the operator. It has for a more specificobjectto provide in a. buttonhole sewing machine means whereby the workmay he shifted preparatory to each buttonhole stitching operation so asto correctly space apart a succession of buttonholes in a piece ofmaterial, such spacing being either uniform or varied in fixed or arbitany degree.

In its preferred embodiment, the present improvement is applied to abutt-onhole sewing machine. containing suitable stit-cl'i-formingmechanism and a work-holder with feeding mechanism for producingrelative stitch-spacing movements between them. (oopcrating with thestitch-forming and feeding mechanisms is a travelling cutting devicehaving opposed cutting elements adapted in the retracted position of thecutting device to be aimed in nipping relation third arm or projectionof the rockshaft is normally spring-pressed into contact relation with astop-plate sustained by a manually operated rock-lever having an armwhich is adapted to contact with a. yielding stop-spring beyond thenormal position of which it may be forced when desired.

The engagement of the said third arm or projection of the rock-shaftwith the, stopplate determines the normal retracted position of thecutting device from which it advances toward the stitch-formingmechanism a distance corresponding with the normal spacing apart of thebuttonholes. The stop-plate is so formed that upon manual movement ofthe rock-lever until arrested by encounter with thestop-spring. therelation of the operative portion of the stop-plate to said arm orprojection is changed to apredetermined degree so as to locate theretracted position of the cutting device accordingly preparatory to itsperforming an advance movement of corresponding length to the stitchingpoint. The travel of the cutting device may obviously he furthermodified by forcing the rock-lever carrying the stop-plate into anvarbitrary position beyond the point of contact with the stopspring whichlatter is adapted to yield under thev abnormal impulse. required toovercome its resistance. It is evident that the operative face of thest0p-plate may be so shaped that the movement of the rock-lever beyondthe initial point of resistance offered by the stop-spring will cause itto so determine the retracted position of the cutting device as toeffect either the lengthening or shortening of its "ange of movement towork-presenting position.

As represented in the drawings, the present improvement is, embodied inthe buttonhole cutting and stitching machine forming the subject of mypending application Serial No. 69,644, filed December 31, 1915, and theseveral groups of mechanism not directly involving features of thepresent invention are, or may be, constructed in accordance with saidapplication. L

In the accompanying drawings, Fig. 1 1s a side elevation of a buttonholesewing machine embodying the present improvements, and Fig. 1 a similarelevation taken from the opposite side, representing a portion of thecutting mechanisn'i. Fig. 2 is a front and elevation, and Fig. 3 a planof the machine. Fig. 1 is an elevation, viewed from the end oppositethat represented in Fig. 2, showing the mechanism for producing thetravelling or workshifting movements of the cutting device, and Fig. 5is a perspective view, upon a larger scale, of a portion of suchmechanism. showing certain of its component parts detached for purposesof illustration. Fig. 6 is an elevation of a portion of the mechanismrepresented in Fig. 5, and Fig. 7 is a transverse section of the samethrough the coupling pin by means of which the adjustment of the normaltraverse of the cutting device is effected. Fig. 8 is a perspective viewrepresenting that part of the cutting mechanism which imparts to theopposed cutting elements the work-nipping and cutting movements. Fig. 9is a detail sectional elevation representing a modification of the stopplate and its positioning means.

As shown in the drawings, the machine is constructed with a framecomprising the base 1 from which rises the standards 2 sustaining incoaxial relation the main-shaft 3 and the constantly running drivingpulley 1 imparting. through suitable clutch devices and otherconnections. operative movements to the several trains of mechanism.

The clutch devices are controlled to set in motion su cessively thecutting and stitchforming and feeding mechanisms by means of an endwisemovable rock-shaft 5 carrying at one end the bent crank-arm 6 to whichis attached the treadle rod 7. The rockshaft may be actuated to startthe machine either by drawing down the treadle rod 7 or by pressing,down the hand-lever 8 pivotally connected with the opposite end of therockshaft.

Slidingly mounted upon the base 1 and confined within ways 9 thereon isthe bedplate 10 of the travelling stitch-frame sustaining the uprightpost 11 carrying the lateral bracket member 12 which sustains bearingsin which is journaled the reciprocatmg needle-bar 13' carrying a needle11 cooperating in practice with loop-taking elements sustained by thebed-plate 10. These stitcluforming elements are suitably mounted intheir respective supports to perform a partial rotation in a buttonholestitching cycle through an operative connection with the feed-can 15which derives its operative movements from connections with themain-shaft 3.

The longitudinal feeding or stitch-spacing movements and the lateralside-shift movements are imparted to the stitch-frame by connectionswith the feed'cam including roller-studs 16 and 17, respectively,entering suitable cam-grooves in the lower face of the feed-cam cylinder15.

The non-travelling work-holder of the present machine comprises aworkplate 18,

preferably in relatively movable sections and serving as the lowerclamping member, and the feet 19 and 20 constituting the sectional upperclamping member of the workholder, these feet being carried respectivelyby the independently mounted arms 21 and 22 adapted to be differentiallylowered and lifted to clamp and release the work by automaticallyoperated means including levers 23 and 24 carrying roller-studs 9.3 and24' entering peripheral cam-tracks 25 and 26 in the feed-cam-cylinder.

As described in my said pending application. the travelling cuttingdevice comprises a vertically and horizontally movable cutterleverformed in two rigidly connected sections 27 and 28 with an intermediateraised seat 29 apertured to receive and guide a stud 30 and a steady pin31 depending from a plate 32 having an upwardly offset lateral extension33. Secured upon the extension 33 is the cutter-block or plate 34disposed l cneath and in operative relation with the relatively movableupper cutting knife 35 sustained by the overhanging member 36 of thecutter-lever or frame. The upper and lower cutting elements 3% and 35are maintained normally separated by means of a spring 37 surroundingthe stud 3t) and interposed between the head of a screw 38 tappedtherein and the lower face of the part 29 of the outter-lever.

The lever-arm 27 is formed with a transverse boss 39 in which is securedthe pivotal pin 40 which is journaled in the spaced members of atransverse yoke. 41 of a swinging frame 42 carrying the guide-rod 43.The frame 4:? is formed with a depending boss 44 embraced between andpivotally connected by means of the pin 4:) with the spaced arms 46 of alink member which are rigidly connected together by the tie piece 47.The arms 46 embrace between them and are pivotally connected by the pin48 with the spaced lateral arms 49 of a swinging bracket having atubular hub 50 journaled upon the fulcrum-stud 50 which is sustained bythe base 1.

By the means described. the swinging frame. -12 is supported formovement in any direction horizontally around the pivotal pins 45. 48and 50 and is restrained against movement in other directions. Thcutterthin the path .of; meal-i1: o1 yistuds 82= adjustahly-v thelu'acket-jplate- 83:.

J. the cam-wheel screw 38 .estiinguipor i i member 15. t a ,1 upper edgeof the tappeb, .70 Slidingl r mountediupon-the gu' iilenod 4;,- at theiencmlntcr of its is a sleeve adaptp "I-lJB secli'ifiil;ithereon. 1 Ie'd lorward edgowwith the in the dusuediposition; adjustment =h v iursesits depression until thc means ofgthc.elarnmscrmix;fifiliand provided ,irent straight portion with a, laterally,neXtending-and'apertured: Ner-position thus as boss 53 iniufhich lSiSe zed the:.ztulcrurnpin 3 centeringa sockgatiiio ,ii-the slidinggleam 56. This ,s'gleeve ietit-ted" hponja -,1()(li hot i: the rigid-bracket M provide itha.parallel pressed 1, v rod :mflembraced by the vingefitllof the sleeveth:i1wd down 56 to restrain.thfllflitwagainst turning ai Hedge-whichclamp-screw 61 being applied to said sleeve position.

Atari-Studs so as to pro- -e forked lever in such deitllithe,irollers8:2- reach a .i-the it charm,fiTupon tne rockto secure it;vin-theadesired position o fi,;a.(l-:- kd ace justment. I -shatt-fl69 issecured the split hub 84 of an is sihown, Secured; to the; "-OVGI'lyiH m"llTfl-B5P'POVldGd"llpOn its opposite he i-spa'eede and apert-ured ears8G The bracket 58 front end of the, base, 1 Withthe, parallel rodsifaceav'itl 5? and 59 inclined*tov 'tlm-ni'ertioal: pivotal ,hetwveeh ini l ibis-formed with a longitupins -15. l8 andfiOQtherod 43, beingso susg lina'lgrooxe 8.4 I Iounted upon a pivotal tained byv its swingingflfiame42.nthat it 218- pin 88 passing.gthrough; said cars 86 is a SIUHQS aposition zin parallelism w.iththe-' 1 ods -lateh.. lever-%9 sitha-noutwardly offset tail 5? and 59 when directly above them correa 90.presed-i. wvar lly-hy means of a. spring sponding with the cuttingpositiOn Qty-the -91 interposed between the-same and thebotcuttingelements." i sic V tom .ot1a cavity 92 in the arm 8;). The latch- Thevertically arranged. pin fi olwiously. lever. 89 is inminrallyimaintained hy its spring affords a fulcrum upon which il'lQSWllIQ'lflQ within the groove 87 lot the arm with frame 4:2 and theconnected cutter-lever its j)F()jQ(-tlflf portion. 93 extending beyondmove to confine the-bodily trai 'eli ol -the e the oilipos' cf waid armand into a ting clementsttm .c ircuilarypath. grce of curvature;determined l t:1nce:;. ()f the fulcrum-pi v 1 "nent-anulnison. tion bywhich it lSmFLlIJIdlHQtl n alimmfizntu a; The roekwrrr t" "provided atits rearin its adjustment along .th e ,fixed;guid ,Mod Aral-dredge w (Linclined guide wing 95 57. By simultaneous Nljt1$effl9fil3gflfitheqtowinsure ilative positioning of sleeves 51 and 56 lengthufi uotthhi rQ Df' ftlle assuming interlocking tire gupportingrods; theradificur iatu ge positionan isuproitided upon its opposite of thetravelling movementsro th cu,ttinv n-gailarlpq disposed lug 96 elementsmaybe: correspondingl 0a top-screw 97' adapted to en- 'lhe cutter-leverarmiQS is slim -gage=tha corresponding edge. of the arm 5. with anupwardly. extending hos. h v Loosely n minted fll'iOfifllHllHl) ()3 ofthe ing a,h,all-stud 63 which is embraced- Nithehulr 98 Man upwardlystrap at onepend of alink GnliaYi-i'ig' at t. tormedwith alongituopposite end a similarstrapeimhracingvtheii series,ltUlSiTG-PSOTliOltS 100 disposed hall-shaped extremity 65.01 theist'ud,tr fluro at an mglo. t lr a similar-series of holes 101 jectinglaterallyfrom onenfac e of the roeltcit-arm -;ti.7and entered by the conarm 67 which is formed withthe tubular huh --"ing-';the knurled head 10365%. The hub 68 ot' the rock-armfii' isglooselyi f :as throughcorresponding fitted upon the roiik-shat'ttif),which nis;mount pecti-iiearms to lock them ed in hearings/7 0 projecting tromfthewtop: tterent"posit'ions "of relative of the bed 1. I angular adpistmcnt. The head ofthe pin Fixed upon the-rearwaiiil end of,=-the.rocl .4102 has act-inical-eweuti ic flange 103' formed halit 69 is the huh 71oti-alateral crankyarm 1: f t1,lcucaineportion103" which is 72 carl','ing the rollQ'r-stlld 7.3 diSposPd Wi-tlllfiatti-uied ui n hnomide at 13". the outer in the range of n oye uent ofljthe might;fiauge'heingadapted-to enter lower edge Tl of one brang'h T5 of :aforleci-l lever [(6 tulcrunped at, f 'flupon henpost rising tronr thehase l. saidlever hfiYing upwardly extending, arm 79in one tan-ego whichis secured hujSc-rewshotheforwardly vol-thing lQt rhe opcration of themayajchim -;-.The pin may he rcmovcd by turning extendingtappetniemhei;81; .4 a.

Thg lwangula uppergf dge ofiqtheitappet-wthe. satne l ring" :th'e"fiatted Side of its 130 a zmn we -normally locked got-githe arm- 99against the allyj ot-hhn-h it may be jingvto secure the pin againstflange into register with the edge of said lip and then withdrawing thesame for insertion into a different pair of holes. The hub 98 of the arm99 has a lateral lug 104 through which is tapped the contact stud-screw105 provided with the janrnut 106 for retaining .t in the properadjustment.

The rock-shaft has secured thereon the :ollar 107 between which and oneof the .iearings it is embraced by the spring 103 having one end-securedin said bearing 1nd the other end attached to the collar 107. lhisspring acts upon the rock-shaft 69 to -ause the point of the contactstud-screw 10.3 to normally rest u ion the upper warped airfare of thestop-plate 109 sustained by in upwardly extending arm 110 whose hub ,11is fixed upon the fulcrum-pin 112 jourialed within a suitable bearingboss 113 of he base 1. The fulcrum-pin 112 has fixed ipon its inner endthe collar 114 between vhich and the bearing 113 it is provided with hespring 11:) having its opposite ends coniected with said parts to insurethe normal ontact of one edge of the stop-plate with he bottom of arecess 1 formed therefore in he upper face of the base.

The outer face of the arm 110 is shown ormed with an undercutlongitudinal :roove 116 in which is fitted a similarly haped nut 117entered by a clamp-screw 11S mssing through a slot 119 of an overlyingrm 120 of a plural-armed operating lever oosely journaled upon thefulcrum-pin 112 nd having oppositely extending lateral rnis 121 and 122.Fitted upon the arm 120 s a sliding cap 123 entered by and movable riththe screw 118 in its various positions of engthwise adjustment andprovided with a iteral projection in the form of a pointer 24 overlyinga scale 125 provided upon a iteral extension or wing 126 of the arm 120.

The outer portion of the arm 121 is aperared to receive the eyed end ofa rod 127 fi'ording a connection with a knee-lever or readle beneath themachine The backwardly extending arm 122 caries at its extremit alateral stud-pin 12S aving a range of movement about the fulrum-pin 112crossing the outer extremity t the stop-spring 129 secured at itsoppoteend upon the lug 1.30 sustained by the ase 1 and normally resting uponthe stud- 2rew 131 of the base 1 under the action of ie thrust-screw 132passing through a lug 33 upon the base 1 and locked in the reuiredposition of adjustment by means of ie jam-nut 134. The stud-screw 131may be nsidered as a stop for predetermining a lltfllll definiteoperative position of the )ring 129.

The section 28 of the cutter-lever is formed ith a boss 28 carrying theroller-stud 135 iapted for engagement by the lower face of ie transverserail 136 sustained by the vertical slide-bar 137 which has in its upperportion the slot 138 and at its lower end the lateral ear 139 carryingthe depending studscrew 1&0 which passes through the apertured lug 141of the block 1-12 to which the bar 137 is slidingly fitted. The slot 138is entered by the shank of the guide-screw 143 tapped into the block142.

The block 142 is secured upon the vertically sliding rod Ill which isjournaled within the rigid bracket 145 forming a part of the machineframe and is normally maintained in initial upper position by means ofthe surrouiuling spring 146 interposed between the bracket 14.3 and acollar 1&7 fixed upon the upper end of the rod 144;. The slide-bar 137is yieldingly maintained in its lower position, in which it rests upon ashoulder afforded by the block 42, by means of a spring 148 interposedbetween the head of the stud-screw 140 and the lug 141.

The block 112 has upon its inner face the lateral roller-stud 1.19adapted to engage the lower edge of the cam-rib 150 upon the peripheryof the cam-wheel 15, this cam-rib being provided with downwardly andconvergently inclined opposite ends and is in the form of a plate havingslots 151 extending lengthwise thereof and entered by the fasteningscrews 152 by which it is adjustably secured to the canncylinder 1:").In the rotation of the canrwheel the encounter of the roller-stud by theinclined advance end of the cam-rib causes the depression of the block142- in opposition to the spring 146, the slidebar 137 being at suchtime prevented from full downward movement, under which condition thespring 148 is compressed.

The spring 1-16 obviously serves to normally maintain the block 142. andwith it the slide-bar 137, raised to permitthe separating of the cutterelements under the action of the spring 37; but when the block 0 142 isforced downwardly in opposition to the spring 14-6 by encounter of therollerstud 149 with the cam-rib 150, the spring 148, acting as ayielding connection between the parts 137 and 142, serves as a cushion115 so as to impose merely a light pulling action upon thebar 137 whichcarries with it the rail 136 exerting a yielding engagement with theroller-stud 135 and thus depresses the cutter-carrying lever withsufficient force in 0 opposition to the spring 37 to produce a merenipping action of the opposed cut-ting elements upon the workpreparatory to its travelling or work-shifting movement to ward thestitching point.

The relative timing of the clamp-operating cam elements 25 and 26 andthe worknipping cam-element 150 is preferably such that the clampremains closed upon the work at the completion of a buttonhole 13 109,as represented in Fig. 5, and, the coupling pin 102 having beenwithdrawn, the rock-arm ($7 is set in the required relation to the arm99 with corresponding holes in the respective arms in alincment, and thecou-' pling pin reinserted. This determines the normal retractedposition of the ball-stud 65, and hence of the travelling cutting devicehaving the described link connection therewith, and insures a normallength of traverse of the cutting, device into stitching position.

The coupling screw-stud 118 may be loosened and shifted within the slot119 to adjust the relation of the overlying arms 110 and 120 and at thesame time set the stud 128 at the required normal distance from thestop-spring 129 so as to fix the extent of predetermined increase ofthrow of the rock-arm 67 under the action of its actuating cam butvarying the initial retracted position of such rock-arm through a manualshift of the stop-plate 109.

The machine is started by rocking the shaft 5, either by drawing downthe treadlcrod 7 or pressing down the hand-lever 8, whereby the feed-camis set in motion and acts through the described connections to firsteli'ect the nipping of the work by the cutting elements and then openthe workholder preparatory to the advance of the cutting device towardthe stitch-forming mechanism under the action of the studs or actuatingelements 82 upon the tappet-arm or follower 81. so as to advance thework through the work-holder a distance equivalent to the spacing apartof buttonholes for which the machine has been previously adjusted. Theupper cutting element or knife 35 is now depressed through the work tocut the hutttonhole slit and permitted to rise and the separatelyoperable pairs of clamplug, elements composing the work-holder aresuccessively closed upon the work while the cutting device retires toretracted position. The stitch-formingmechanism is now thrown intoaction and the stitching of the buttonholc is periormed. after which.through the usual action of the stop-motion device. the machine comes torest in the initial position above described.

In the normal operation of the machine in producing uniformly spacedbuttonholes in an article such as ashoe upper. the-cutting and workingof the buttonholes and the shift of the wort to space them apart iseffected automatically without any special attention to the cuttingdevice on the part of the operator. However. it sometimes happens thatin different parts of a series of buttonholcs it is desirable to vary aninitial spacing by a fixed or predetermined amount. such amount beingdetermined by the relative adjustment of the arms 110 and 120 as beforedescribed. This change of spacing may be readily efl'ected in thepresent machine by d 'awing down the arm 1:21 preparatory to abut-tonhole-producing cycle to such extent as to bring the stud 128 intocontact with the stop-spring 129 thereby shifting the stop-plate 109 tothe left, as viewed in Fig. 5, the contact stud 105 thus being causedunder the action of the spring 108 to assume a new predeterminedpositionupon the stopplate 109, and the initial retracted position ofthe cutting device being changed accordingly. In the subsequent advanceoi the cutting device to its uniform advance position adjacent thestitch-formin nu-chanism, it now performs a traverse o'l ditl'e-rentextent from the normal and imparts to the work a corrcspmiding advancemovement. In case a further change from the normal work-shiftingmovement is desired. this may be effected by moving the lever-arm 121 tomove the stud 128 beyond the normal stopping position of the spring 129.thereby thrusting the same backward to such extent as may be desired soas to give the stop-plate 109 a movement of an amplitude arbitrarilydetermined by the operator, with acorresponding change in the initialretracted position oi the cutting device.

It is evident that the form and relation of the stop-plate 109 to theswinging arm 99 and the contact-stud 105 carried thereby will bedetermined accm'ding to the nature of the desired, changes to beciiectcd in the normal shift of the work to spacc the button holes; andin the present instance the operative face of the stop-plate is arrangedcccentrically to the fulcrum-pin 112 in such manner that the manualshift oi the arm 110 from initial position would effect a retirement ofthe cutting device from normal rctracted position in a dircctionopposite to the stitching point. It is however evident that the effectof such movement of the contact-plate may be determined by the form ofits operative face.

In Fig. 9 is represented a. modification in which the extren'iity of thestop-plate 109 rests upon a stiti flat spring 179 secured within therecess 1" of the machine base by means of :1V screw 179. In this casethe opposite end of the stop-plate is shown extended beyond that of thepreceding figures and suitably shaped. .With. this construction. thedepression of the trcadle-rod 127 acts as in the preceding figures tocfiect an increase in the spacing apart of the buttonholes; but by anupward pressure upon the treadle rod. the end of the stop-plate forciblydisplaces the spring 178 toward the bottom of the recess 1" to presentthe opposite extremity of the stop-plate to the contactstud 105. therebyhaving the effect of shifting the initial position of the cutting devicetoward the stitching point and reducing the spacing apart of thebuttonholes.

From the foregoing description, it is evident that in its broadestaspect, the present invention 18 susceptible of emliiodnnent indifferent types and classes of sewing ma ments. and means including aslut'table ele-.

chines involving the manual variation of the normal throw of areciprocating element either to a predetermined degree or to an ot' thework and the second the cutting of the buttonhole slit; and it isevident that the closing of the cutting elements may be effected by asingle stage movement preparatory to the travel from retracted tostitching position. It is also evident that this feature of shifting thework to space successive groups of stitches thereon may be embodied inmachines not provided with travelling cutting devices by employment ofspecial travelling work-shifting means with provision for gripping thework preparatory to their work-advancing movements.

It is equally obvious that in its several aspects the presentimprovement is not limited. in other respects than those above noted, tothe specific construction and arrangement of its componentparts. inaccordance with the present disclosure, but it is susceptible ofmodification in very large degree within the scope of the presentinvention.

Having thus set forth the nature ofthe invention. what I claim hereinis 1. In a sewing machine. in combination. a driven element. a drivingelement with means acting through the same for normally imparting to thedriven element uniform movements. and means for selectively varying theamplitude of said movements either to a predetermined limit or beyondsaid limit. said means including a manually shiitablc element andcoacting devices for arresting movement of said element at a predetermined position under a normal impulse, one of said devicesincluding means which shifts under an abnormal impulse to permitfurthermovement of said manually shiftable clement.

2. In a sewing machine. in combination. a driven element. a drivingelement with means acting through the same for normally imparting to thedriven element uniform movements. and means including a shiftableelement for selectively varying the amplitude of said movements eitherto a predetermined limit or beyond said limit, said last-mentioned meansincluding a resistance device interposed in the path of movement of saidelement and a stop for determining a certain definite operative positionof said resistance device.

3. In a sewing machine,.in,combination. a driven element,adrivingelement w ithnieans acting through the same torunorxnally impartingtothe driven element- .unit'orm move-v ment for selectively. varying theamplitude of said movements either to a predetermined limit or beyondsaidlimit; said last mentionedmeans including a resistance device which,\vhen displaced by said element. will automaticallyreturn to initialposition.

4. Tu a sewing machine. in combination, a driven'elemcnt, a drivingelei'nent with means acting through the :stlllle tor normallyimparting-to the driven element uniform movements. means for selectivelyvarying at will the amplitude ot'sa id movementseither to apredetermined limit orzbeyond said limit, and independent means foradjusting the predetermined limit of variation of said move- 'ments. I

5. In asewing machine. in combination. a driven element.a drivingelement with means acting through the same for normally imparting to thedriven elementmovements of predetermined amplitude. means including areciprocatory member for varying at will the amplitude of said movementsin a predetermined degree. and means including a yielding resistancedisposed intermediate the limits of movement of said reciprocatorymember and serving optionally to arrest the latter 'or to permit itscontinued movement.

6'. In a sewing machine. driving and driven -elements with a connectionbetween them for producing normal movements of the driven element, andcontrolling means applied to said connection for effecting variations inthe extent of said movements and comprising a reciprocatory member withmeans for applyingthereto a yielding re sistance at a definite pointbetween the extremes of its range of movement.

7. In a sewing machine. driving and driven elementswith a connectionbetween them for producing normalmovements of the driven element, andcontrolling means applied to producing a variable throwot' the drivenclement.a shittable device tor adjusting said connectlon. and means forlimiting the throw-varying movement of said shiftable device under anormal impulse. said means being constructed to permit a further movement ofsaid shift-able device under an ab- -normal impulse and to returnauton'iatically to initial limiting position prior to the execution of asubsequent normal impulse.

9. In a sewing machine. in combination. stitch-forming mechanism.feeding mechanism for producing relative stitch-spacing movementsbetween the stitch-forming mechanism and the work. work-shifting meansfor advancing the wo1k in a curved path transversely of thestitch-spacing movements produced by said feeding mechanism, andadjusting means operable while the machine is in operation to vary theextent of the work-advancing movements.

It). In a sewing machine. in combination. stitch-forming mechanism.feeding mechanism for producing relative stitch-spacing movementsbetween the stitch-forming mechanism and the work. work-shifting meansfor advancing the work in a diti'erent direction from the stitch-spm-ingmovements produced by said feeding mechanism. and manually controlledmeans for varying at will the extent of the \vork-zulvancing movementsof said work-shifting means without stopping the nnu-hine.

11. In a sewing machine. in combination, stitch-forming mechanism.feeding mechanism for producing relative stitch-spacing movementsbetween the stitch-forming mechanism and the work. work-shifting meansfor advancing the work to said feeding mechanism. and manually actuatedmeans including a reciprocatory member and a yielding resistancetherefor adapted to come into action upon said member intermediate itslimits of movement whereby the extent of the normal work-advancingmovements may. at will. be varied to or beyond a predetermined limit.

12. In a sewing machine. in combination. stitch-forming mechanism.feeding mechanism for producing relative stitch-sl'iacing movementsbetween the stitch-forming mechanism and the work, work-shifting meansfor advancing the work to said feeding mechanism. manually actuatedmeans including a reciprocatory member and a yielding resistanceintermediate its extreme positions whereby the extent of the normalwork-advancing movements mav be varied up to or beyond a predeterminedlimit. and means for adjusting the position of said yielding resistancerelative to the extreme positions of said reciprocatory member.

13. In a sewing machine. in combination. stitch-forming mechanism.feeding mechanism for producing relative stitch-spacing moven'ientsbetween the stitch-forming mechanism and the work. work-shifting meansfor advancing the work to said feeding mechanism. means for adjustingthe length of the normal work-advancing movements. and manually actuatedmeans including a reciprocatory member and a yielding resistanceinterposed at a predetermined point intermediate the limits of movementof said reciprocatory member whereby the extent of the normalwork-advancing move ments may be varied up to or beyond a predeterminedlimit.

14. In a buttonhole sewing machine in combination, stitchformingmechanism, a \v0rk-hol(iler. feeding mechanism for relatively moving thestitch-forming mechanism and work-holder to sew around a buttonhole,work-shifting means including a reciprocatory work-engaging element foradvancing the work to said work-holder between sewing periods. and meansfor varying the length of travel of said work-engaging element to varythe spacing of the but tonholes.

1.5. In a buttonhole sewing machine. in combination. stitch-formingmechanism, a work-holder, feeding mechanism for relatively moving thestitch-forming mechanism and \\'orkl10lder to sew around a buttonhole,work-shifting means including a to-and-fro moving work-engaging elementfor advancing the work to said work-holder, means connected with andactuated by a moving part of the machine for imparting a normalto-and-fro travel to said work-engaging element. and means for varyingthe length of travel of said work-engaging element.

16. In a lmttonhole sewing machine. in combination. stitch-formingmechanism, a work-holder. means for producing relative bodily travelingmovements between the stitch-forming mechanism and the workholder to sewaround a buttonhole, workshifting means out of engagement with the workduring the sewing and adapted to engage and advance the work to saidwork-- holder between sewing periods. and manually controlled means forrendering the work-shifting means ineifective without affecting theoperation of the stitch-forming mechanism and the work-holder.

17. In a buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitch-formingmechanism, a work-holder. feeding mechanism for pro ducing relativebodily traveling movements between the stitch-forn'ling mechanism andthe work-holder. work-shifting means for presenting the work to thework-holder. and manually controlled means operable without stopping themachine for varying the normal action of said work-shifting means.

18. In a buttonhole sewing machine. in combination. stitch-formingmechanism, a work-holder. feeding mechanism for relatively moving thestitch-forming mechanism and work-holder to sew around a buttonhole.means for advancing the work to the workholder between sewing peroids.said means including a work-engaging element movable in oppositedirections toward and away from sewing position. a stop for limiting itsmovement in one direction, and means for shiftintense I ing said stop tovary the spacing of the buttonholes. l

19. In a. buttonhole sewing machine, in combination. stitch-formingmechanism, Worlshifting means for presenting the work to thestitch-forming mechanism including a moving element and a stop forlimiting its movement, manually controlled means including areciprocatory member for shifting said stop into different operativerelations with said element, and means acting upon said reciprooat-orymember optionally to limit its movement to a predetermined point or topermit such movement beyond said point.

20. In a buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitch-formingmechanism, workshifting means for presenting the work to thestitch-forming mechanism, said means including a work-engaging elementmovable in opposite directions toward and away from the stitch-formingmechanism, a stop for limiting the retrograde movement of said elementaway from the stitch-forming mechanism, means for adjusting the initialposition of said stop, and manually controlled means operable at willfor shifting said stop into different-operative relations with saidelement.

21. In a buttonhole sewing machine, in co bination, stitch-formingmechanism, workshifting means for presenting the work to thestitch-forming mechanism including a moving element and'a stop forlimiting its movement, manually controlled means including areciprocatory member for shifts ing said stop into difierent operativerelations with said element, and means acting at a predetermined pointin the range of movement of said member for forcibly resisting itsmovement beyond the same while permitting its movement throughout theentire range of movement.

22. In a buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitch-formingmechanism, a traveling huttonhole cutting device, means for shifting ittoward and from the stitchforming mechanism, and means for varying thelength of travel of said cutting device.

23. In a buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitch-formingmechanism, a buttonhole cutting device, means for shift; ing it fromretracted position toward and from the stitch-forming mechanism, meansfor closing it and maintaining it closed upon the work while inretracted position and during its travel therefrom, respectively,

and means for varying the length of travel of said cutting device;

24. In a buttonhole sewingmachine, in combination, stitch-formingmechanism, a travelling buttonhole cutting device, means for shifting ittoward and from the stitchforming mechanism and manually controlledelement.

means for varying the length of travel of said cutting device.

25.1na sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, atravelling upon the work, and means for imparting travelling movementsto said elements and comprising an actuating element and a tollowertherefor with provision for shifting of the follower to differentpositions within the range of movement of said actuating 26, In. a.sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a travellingwork-gripping device movable toward and from the same, means for closingsaid gripping device upon the work, and means for imparting travellingmovements to said device and comprising an actuating element and a'follower therefor, normally acting means for setting the follower at apredetermined position within the range of action of said actuatingelement, and manually controlled means for shifting at will saidposition without disturbing said normally actin positioning means.

27. n a buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitch-formingmechanism, a workholder, feeding mechanism for relatively movingthestitch-forming mechanism and work-holder to sew around a buttonhole,a travelling work-gripping device movable toward and from thework-holder, means for closing said gripping device upon the work, 'andmeans for imparting travelling movements to said device and comprising aspring-pressed reciprocatory member connected therewith, actuating meanstherefor, and a shifting stop element for determining the initialposition of said reciprocatory member.

528. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, atravelling work-gripping device movable toward and from the same, meansfor closing said gripping device upon the work, and means for impartingtravelling movements to said device and comprising a spring-pressedreciprocatory member connected therewith, actuating means therefor, amovable stop element for determining the initial position of saidreciprocatory member, means'for shitting said stop element intodifit'erent relations with said reciprocatory member, and a yielding,stop into contact with and beyond Which said stopelement shifting meansmay be moved. I

29. In a. sewing machine, in combination, stitclnforming mechanism, atravelling work-gripping device movable toward and from the same, meansfor closing said gri ping device upon the work, and means for impartingtravelling movements to said device and comprising a spring-pressedreciprocatory member connected therewith, actuating means therefor, amovable stop element for determining the initial position of saidreciprocatory member, means for shiftint, said stop element intodiiterent relations with said reciprocatory member, a stopspring withinthe range of action of the stop element shifting means, and a fixedabutment normally receiving the thrust of said stop-spring upon the sidethereof engaged by said shifting means.

30. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitchforming mechanism, atravelling work'gripping device'movable toward and from the same, meansfor closing said gripping device upon the work, and means for impartingtravelling movements to said device and comprising a spring-pressed reatravelling worlcnipping device for shiftmg the Work relatively to thework-holder between buttonhole stitching operations,

means for varying the length of travel of ciprocatory member connectedtherewith,

actuating means therefor, a movable stop element for determining theinitial position of said reciprocatory member, means for shifting saidstop element into different relations with said reciprocatorymember, astop-spring within the range of action of the stop element shiftingmeans,'a fixed abutment normally receiving the thrust of saidstop-spring upon the side thereof engaged by said shitting means, andmeans for adjusting the initial position of said shifting meansrelatively to said stop-spring.

31. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitchforming mechanism, atravelling work-gripping device movable toward and from the same, meansfor closing said'gripping deviceupon the work. and means for impartingtravelling movements to said device and comprising an actuating element,a spring-pressed reciprocatory member connected with said device andcarrying a follower disposed within the range of action of saidactuating element, adjusting means for varying the initial position ofsaid follower relative to the range of movement oi said actuatingelement, and a shifting stop element-carrier operatively connected withsaid spring-pressed member with manually controlled means acting thereonfor further controlling the iosition of said follower.

32. In a. buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitclrformingmechanism, a work-holder, feeding mechanism for relatively moving thestitch-forming mechanism and work-holder to sew around a buttonhole,

said-nipping device, and means for rendering said device ineffective.

34;. In a buttonhole sewing, machine, in combination, stitch-formingmechanism, a work-holder, feeding mechanism for relatively moving the.stitch-forming mechanism and Work-holder to sew around a buttonhole, atravelling work-nipping device for shifting the work relative to thework-holder between buttonhole stitching operations, travel-producingmeans therefor, means for closing said work-nipping device upon the WOIIpreparatory to a travelling movement, and means for rendering saidtravel-pro tlucing means ineffective.

35. A. buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitchingdevices and a workclanip relatively movable to sew about a buttonhole, awork-feeder, mechanism for advancing the feeder, for the purpose ofspacing the buttonholes, while the clamp is opened and for returning itto initial position before the completion of the succeeding buttonholemaking cycle, and means for varyinq the spacing stroke of the feeder.

36. 1s. buttonhole sewing machine, having, in combination,stitch-forming mechanism, a work-clamp, mechanism for relatively movingthem to sew about a buttonhole, a work spacer, mechanism for advancingthe spacer to space the work while the clamp is opened and "forreturning it to initial position before the completion of the succeedingbuttonhole making cycle, and means for varying the spacing stroke of thespacer.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specification.

ALBERT H. DE VOE.

